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To understand the history of Sandpoint, and Bonner County, North Idaho, one must first take into
account our geography. While our area is dominated by mountains, the most
prominent feature is Lake Pend Oreille, with an area of 148 square miles, and
111 miles of coastline. After the Great Salt Lake it is the 2nd largest in the
Western US. It is 65 miles long, and 1,150 feet deep in some regions (5th in the
US). Fed by
Clark Fork River and drained by the
Pend Oreille River. It is surrounded by national
forests and many small towns, including Bayview, Hope, and Sandpoint. All but
the southern tip of the lake is in
Bonner County, the southern tip which is home to
Farragut State Park, the original home of the
Farragut Naval Training Station,
and the home of the NAVSEA's Naval Surface Warfare Center Carderock Division's
Acoustic Research Detachment (ARD) is in
Kootenai County.
The lake is home
to many species of fish including: rainbow trout, lake trout, perch, crappie,
bass, walleye, whitefish and kamloops. The forests are known to have various
pines, such as ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, poplar and western larch. Whitetail
deer, squirrels, black bears, coyotes, elk, cougar, and bobcats are known to
reside in these forests. Bald Eagles, osprey, owls, hummingbirds, hawks,
woodpeckers, ducks and the mountain bluebird are seen in the skies around the
lake.
It is also believed that the eastern side of the lake was
in the path of the ancient
Missoula Flood. This is the great event that shaped
much of the Inland Empire of the Pacific Northwest. The Missoula Flood is an Ice
Age event that has been featured on NOVA, and refer to the catastrophic
floods that swept periodically across eastern
Washington, Idaho, and Montana, and down the
Columbia River Gorge at the end of the last ice
age. Farragut
State Park is located where the
Lake Missoula Floods broke out from the
end of Lake Pend Oreille.
The floods were the result of the periodic sudden rupture
of the ice dam on the
Clark Fork River that created
Glacial Lake Missoula. After each rupture of the ice
dam, the waters of the lake would rush down the Clark Fork and the
Columbia River, inundating much of eastern Washington
and the Willamette Valley in western Oregon.
After the rupture, the ice would
reform, recreating
Glacial Lake Missoula once again.
Geologists
estimate that the cycle of flooding and reformation of the lake lasted on
average of 55 years and that the floods occurred approximately 40 times over the
2,000 year period between 15,000 and 13,000 years ago.
The other great
shaping feature was the area’s glaciers. The rugged mountainous beauty of this
area of North Idaho was formed by these two components.
For thousands of years, these two forces of nature were
actively moving the landscape of North Idaho. The glacial ice sheets moved land, mountain, and water over
centuries. The floods occurred over relatively shorter periods. The areas of the
Lake Pend Oreille and the Clark Fork River held a dam of ice that towered over
two thousand feet today’s lake level. When this dam failed many times over the
millennia a deluge of water was released in unimaginable proportions at speeds
of 60 miles per hour and hundreds of feet deep, creating forces great enough to
shape the landscape we know today from here to Portland, Oregon.
The Kalispel tribe was the first to inhabit Sandpoint. With a
moderate climate and bountiful game and food, they prospered from Montana to Eastern Washington.

White man reintroduced the horse to North America in the 16th
century and by the 1700s the Kalispel tribe began to utilize the horse, taking
them east of the Rocky Mountains, bringing contact with Plains Indians. The
Kalispel adopted some of the habits and culture of these tribes, including
hide-covered tipis and buffalo meat.
Despite their growing dependence on buffalo, the Kalispel
remained adept at utilizing local resources. They caught fish and hunted a wide
variety of game and birds. Women dug camas bulbs, baking them in large
underground pits to render them suitable for winter storage. They also picked
berries and wild fruits, drying large quantities for use during the cold months.
Another group that lived on the shores of Lake Pend Oreille were the
Flathead Indians and several Salish, Kootenai and Pend O'Reilles bands lived in
western Montana, northern Idaho, and eastern Washington in the early 1800s.
The
Flathead Indians of Montana
built encampments on the shore of
Lake Pend Oreille every summer, fished, made baskets
of cedar, and collected huckleberries before returning to Montana in the fall.
The encampments ended before 1930.
Traditionally Kalispel territory encompassed Lake Pend Oreille along the
Pend Oreille River into eastern Washington, and east along the Clark Fork River
into Montana. They established year-round settlements near present-day Laclede,
on both sides of the river, and at the mouth of the Clark Fork River,
where 300-400 Kalispel lived. There were additional permanent villages in
eastern Washington, as well as numerous seasonal camps, including one near
present-day Sandpoint.
Long before white explorers came to the Pend d'Oreille
country, an old Indian trail from Spokane River ran through Rathdrum prairie and
crossed the Pend d'Oreille at Sineacateen (a name which comes from the Kalispell
or Pend d'Oreille word for crossing-of-the-waters), located close to the present
site of Laclede. Then the trail continued northward across the Kootenai at
Bonner's Ferry.
Idaho was the last state to be
explored by European and American explorers. Lewis and Clark crossed into Idaho
in August 1805 on their journey of exploration for the United States government.
Their route took them far south of present-day Bonner County, over Lolo Pass and
down the Clearwater River.
While many explorers gained great fame, including Lewis and
Clark, our area was first exploited by David Thompson: the determined and
intrepid Canadian trading expedition leader who led the first white men to the
shores of Lake Pend Oreille
in the fall of 1809.
His contemporary, the great explorer
Alexander Mackenzie, remarked that Thompson did more
in ten months than he would have thought possible in two years.
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More about
David Thompson in
TheFurTrapper.com
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| Painting by David Manchess. Retracing
the steps of Canadian explorer and mapmaker David Thompson, Manchess
traveled into remote Saskatchewan to see the wilderness firsthand.
“It’s inspiring to stand in the same spot where an explorer stood
200 years before and discover that nothing has changed,” Manchess
says. |
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©1996 National Geographic Society. All rights reserved.
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Thompson served as explorer, map maker, and trader for the
Canadian North West Company, a rival in the fur trade with Hudson's Bay Company. Although
he was in Idaho for a total of only sixty-eight days over
several
years, Thompson's impact was tremendous. He not only expanded the fur trade into
the Inland Northwest and established the first trading post on Lake Pend Oreille, Kullyspell House, but he also located all the practical
routes of travel. Kullyspell House still stands on the Hope Peninsula, and longevity
of the building is a testament to the
fortitude of the man. Soon after Thompson set up Salish House in Montana later
in 1810, a year after David Thompson established a North West Company fur trade
post on Lake Pend d'Oreille, and some of his trappers came down this trail to
found Spokane House west of Spokane Falls where the later city of Spokane was
built. Thompson's Pend d'Oreille post (Kullyspell, or Kalispell House) proved to
be an unfortunate location: on November 14, 1811, Thompson decided to abandon it
because the Kalispell (or Pend d'Oreille) Indians did "not hunt, but only gamble
& keep the men starving. . . ." So he sent his trappers back to Spokane House.
But Finnan MacDonald (who had a Pend
d'Oreille wife) continued to work with the Pend d'Oreille band, which often
camped at Sineacateen. By the
spring of 1813, rival Astorian fur traders were on hand at MacDonald's Pend
d'Oreille camp at Sineacateen. In an effort to rush in a stock of tobacco for
more effective competition for furs in the Pend d'Oreille camp, the Astorian
gained a temporary advantage. But MacDonald, who regularly helped his Pend
d'Oreille associates fight the Blackfeet, came out ahead in the long run. The
North West Company emerged in control of the Spokane-Pend d'Oreille country, and
MacDonald spent many years enjoying "the fascinating pleasures of the far-famed
Spokane House." Whenever he took his wife to see their Pend d'Oreille relatives,
he still traveled over the old Indian trail past Sineacateen.
Trappers and traders continued to sporadically make their way
to the region throughout the first half of the century, along with many
missionaries, mainly Jesuits, called “Kaniksu” (Black Robes in Indian). In the
years after the fur trade, the Indians continued to camp on their travels at
Sineacateen. The North West Company was not alone in trying to harvest furs in
the Pacific Northwest.
Hudson's Bay Company maintained a chain of posts throughout the region and absorbed its
opponent in 1821. The fur trade continued into the 1840s, but
its importance declined as the years went on.
As more Europeans and Americans arrived, they displaced the
Indian tribes that originally lived in the region.
However, efforts to establish a reservation for the Kalispel
failed, and tensions between the two cultures increased. Michael, leader of the
upper Kalispel, signed a treaty with the government in Sandpoint in 1887, but
Masselow, leader of the Lower Kalispel, refused to agree to its terms. As a result, Congress
never ratified the treaty.
In 1914, the Kalispel finally received more than 4,500 acres
of land for a reservation in eastern Washington. Members of the
tribe continued to travel in and out of Bonner
County into the 1930s, following some of their traditional seasonal activities.
Father DeSmet arrived in 1846. He marked a lake in the Selkirk Mountain range as
“Roothan” honoring his superior in Italy.
Captain John Mullan, builder of the Army’s Mullan road, likewise saw the
mountain gem and named it “Lake Kaniksu” on his map in 1865. This
mountain-ringed body of water later became known as Priest Lake.
Two major survey projects introduced more newcomers to
northern Idaho. Isaac Stevens directed a transcontinental railroad survey in the early
1850s, exploring several possible routes across Idaho. One
along the northern shore of Lake Pend Oreille later became the route chosen by
the Northern Pacific
Railroad.
British and American surveyors camped in what is now Bonner County in 1860-1861 as
they worked their way north to mark the international boundary. Survey crews
established a supply depot at Sineacateen in 1860, and another one farther north
at Chelemta, near present-day Bonners Ferry. From there crews moved north to the
border, which they marked with a wide swath cut through the forest.
Artist James Alden
accompanied the
American
team, recording their activities much as a photographer would today.
The decade of the 1860s brought a flurry of activity to
northern Idaho. Gold was discovered in 1863 on Wild Horse Creek in British Columbia and the next
year near Helena, Montana. Thousands of miners swarmed through Idaho on their way to the new diggings. While those heading for
Wild Horse followed the old Indian trail that David Thompson had used, miners
going to Montana had the option of taking the recently completed Mullan military
road (the route of Interstate 90) or the trail around Lake Pend Oreille. A
steady stream of pack trains passed over both routes, taking supplies to the new
camps.
The naming of Bonner County is a memorial to
an outstanding pioneer of the north area - Edwin L. Bonner, who came here in
1863 and purchased the right to build and operate a ferry on the Kootenai river
from old Chief Abraham of the Kootenai tribe at the ferry site less than 30
miles from Canada.
Idaho Legislature also granted ferry privileges to Charles H. Campfield and associates whose ferry was a part of the Wild Horse Trail to the
booming mining country of the Kootenays in Canada, in 1863 and 1864. This
led to the opening of pack train trails from
Fort Walla Walla in Washington
territory and in 1864, with the
Kootenay gold rush, miners and supply trains
came from Walla Walla up the old Indian trail past Sineacateen. A wagon road
went as far as Sineacateen, where a ferry was installed to accommodate traffic.
Miles Moore, later governor of Washington,
had one of the trading posts there during the gold rush. From Sineacateen ferry,
a pack trail (known thereafter as the Wild Horse Trail) followed the old Indian
route
to Bonner's Ferry (also established on the Kootenai in 1864) and on to the Wild
Horse mines near later Fort Steele, British Columbia. By 1866, Sineacateen had
two saloons, two stores, and a hotel. Traffic from the Pacific Northwest to the
Montana mines at Helena came
by Sineacateen in 1866, since the Mullan road (actually only a pack trail across
Idaho) had fallen into poor condition.
Mail pouches traveled by pony express to government steamers
at Steamboat Landing at the head of Lake Pend Oreille for delivery
to waiting riders
at Hope, for Fort Missoula.
Idaho Territory was still in
its swaddling clothes when a visitor to Bonner county of today found “Pend
d’Oreille City (now Sandpoint) a charming little place, where he enjoyed the
society of the enterprising and hospitable gentlemen who have made it their
home.“
This visitor, Col. Cornelius O’Keefe, “late of the Irish
Brigade,” told of this visit in an article published in the August, 1867 issue
of a monthly magazine.
O’Keefe was en route to Montana at the time, making the trip,
according to his article; “From New York to San Francisco, via Nicaragua –
thence by sea to Portland, Oregon – thence up the Columbia to Walla Walla –
thence on mule or horse back to Lake Pend d’Oreille, in the Territory of Idaho.”
O’Keefe, who was to make the next leg of his trip aboard the
Mary Moody, one of the early day steamers on Lake Pend Oreille, wrote in glowing
terms of Pend d'Oreille City, its people, the scenery of the area and also of
the Mary Moody.
“Pend d’Oreille City, standing on a picturesque slope – or
running down it, to speak more correctly – consists of a large store comfortably
stocked, with California and Oregon goods – dry, soft and liquid – a billiard
saloon of grand dimensions – a modestly-proportioned hotel – and a half dozen
private residences, evenly and compactly built of logs and snugly shingles,”
O’Keefe wrote.
“The store belongs to Captain Moody, who is also the
principal owner of the little steamboat, which has been complimented with his
daughter’s name. The billiard saloon is the property of Mr. Blackstone, whose
genial nature well deserves the soldierly and splendid frame through which it
radiates.”
The Pend Oreille route was plagued with mud problems which slowed, but did
not stop, determined travelers. Launching of the steamboat Mary Moody in 1866
helped ease this situation. The Oregon Steam Navigation Company built the boat
at Sineacateen in the winter of 1865-66. Following the launching in late April,
the Mary Moody carried packers and their animals from Sineacateen to Kootenai
Landing if they were headed north, or to Cabinet Landing if they were headed
east. Later in 1866 the home port was changed from Sineacateen to Pend d'Oreille City at the
south end of the lake.
The Mary Moody he termed the first of three boats to navigate
the Clark’s Fork of the
Columbia to the mouth of the Jocko, 10 miles west of the main range of the Rocky Mountains … some 50 miles from Pend d’Oreille City. There,
O’Keefe wrote, she stopped short at the landing at the foot of Cabinet Mountain,
“the Rapids, immediately above the landing, being too violent to permit her
pushing further up.”
Above the Rapids, a second boat took travelers to Thompson’s
Falls, and above Thompson’s Falls, the third boat completed the chain of
navigation to the Jocko.
The distant mines stimulated the growth of the first two
settlements in Bonner County.
By 1867, Pend d'Oreille City had two grocery stores, a hotel, billiard hall,
saloon, and stable and just about matched the booming metropolis of Sineacateen
with its hotel, two stores, and two saloons. These towns did not last, however,
fading as the mining boom dwindled at the end of the decade.
The impact of the mining boom on northern Idaho was temporary, but the
coming of the railroad changed life here permanently. After the initial survey
in 1853, the Northern Pacific conducted additional surveys in the 1870s to
justify the big northerly sweep that the line took around Lake Pend Oreille.
Efforts at construction moved forward slowly, moving from
west to east through this area. The tracks reached the south side of the Lake Pend Oreille outlet at the
end of 1881. The next year 6,000 men - 4,000 of them Chinese - continued the
construction through the Clark Fork division which ran from Sandpoint into Montana. This was the most expensive section to build on the entire
Northern Pacific line.
Sineacateen still served as an important base when the
Northern Pacific Railway was built nearby in 1881-1882. Surveyors who located
the line camped there prior to construction, but the Northern Pacific came
through a few miles away. New communities emerged with rail transportation, and
Sineacateen no longer occupied a strategic site after transportation routes
changed with new bridges and new lines of communication. Sandpoint on Lake Pend d'Oreille replaced
Sineacateen as the major center for that part of the country.
Hope began to grow in 1882 when the Northern Pacific came
through and in 1900 set its Rock Mountain division point in
the hillside village. Incorporated in 1903, the village was named in honor of
the veterinarian who tended the construction horses. A wise and kindly man, Dr.
Hope was widely respected. Hope was the largest town in the area during the
1880s, achieving prominence as the Rocky Mountain division point on the Northern
Pacific line. Engines turned around in the large roundhouse, and the railroad
built shops, offices, and a "beanery" there.
The Hotel
Jeannot was able to capitalize on this business with its location right above
the depot, and with it's tunnels providing easy access for passengers to the
hotel. Many say that the tunnels were
used to entertain these Chinese “coolees,” who were normally not allowed in the
establishments that served the locals and travelers.
In contrast to Hope's early boom, Sandpoint grew slowly
following completion of the railroad. An 1883 visitor found only 300 people in
town, and nine years later another traveler reported that "Sandpoint is made up
of between three and four dozen rude shacks and perhaps a dozen tents." The town
experienced tremendous growth, however, following the turn of the century.
When the division point
moved to Sandpoint, Hope began to decline. The hotel continued to draw people
until the 1960's, partly because the picturesque setting of the town beside Lake
Pend Oreille attracted many tourists. Some of them prominent, such as; J.P.
Morgan, Teddy Roosevelt, Gary Cooper, and Bing Crosby.
The original
Hotel Jeannot (now Hotel Hope) was a wooden structure which burned down in about 1886. It was
then that Joseph M. Jeannot started on his fireproof commercial building, which
he shared with his brother Louis. He constructed one section at a time, and
added on over the years, finally completing the
three-bay, two story hotel in
1898. The rectangular building has two full stories above two separate basement
sections. The facade is divided into three approximately equal bays which vary
in design and building materials indicating that the hotel was built in sections
over a period of years. This theory collaborated by the analysis of the
structure during restoration as well as through oral accounts. The first section
to be built was the first story of the east bay with it's walls of rock-faced
random-coursed granite ashlar with beaded joints. Next came the first story of
the center bay with it's lower facade walls of poured concrete. Following this,
or possibly built at the same time, was the red brick second story over the
center and east bays. The west bay was the last to be built, either all at once
or in two stages. The first floor is of poured concrete with the second floor of
red brick.
Various
business have occupied the building over the years including a saloon, a
restaurant, a general store, a meat market, and even a post office. The vaulted
meat cooler adjoining the west basement was probably built when Louis ran his
general store, and meat market in the period from 1895 to 1897. Now called the
Hotel Hope, it still stands as a testament to the times.
J. M.
Jeannot's hotel and saloon were not his only business interests. He was also
involved in mining and had several claims across Lake Pend Oreille in the area
of Green Monarch Mountain. Hope had a large Chinese population which had arrived
with the railroad, and Jeannot supposedly took advantage of this source of cheap
labor for his mines. According to one of Jeannot's friends, he allowed these men
to use the meat cooler under the hotel as a clubhouse. They gained access to
this room through the small tunnel
which connected it to the railroad depot, thus bypassing the more obvious
entrances. This vault in the hotel is one of the few sites left in Hope which
may be connected with the large number of Chinese who used to live in the town.
Jeannot's
mining operations as well as his losses at gambling led to his unstable
financial condition which may have been one reason the hotel took ten to twelve
years to complete. According to one source, the construction was held up for
more than a year when Jeannot lost all of his money in a bet on William Jennings
Bryan in 1896. Uncertain finances continued to plague Jeannot and he mortgaged
and remortgaged the hotel over the years between 1907 and 1918, eventually
losing the building in 1918. A friend paid off the debt in 1920, and ran the
hotel until her death in 1968.
Two other railroads contributed to the growth of Bonner County. The Great
Northern Railroad came through in 1892, stimulating the development of Colburn,
Laclede, and Priest River. In 1905, the Spokane International opened more of the
countryside to development. Sawyer, Vay, and Clagstone grew up along this route.
The spring of 1894 is still remembered as “high water year.”
Streams throughout the entire panhandle were overflowing with a heavy snow pack
melting rapidly under a sudden hot spell.
An old railroad map first designated the village of Sandpoint as “Pend
Oreille.” The first post office was at Venton across the lake, but when the
Northern Pacific railroad completed its long trestle over the mouth of the lake,
the post office was moved to Pend Oreille and Venton died out. In 1886, the
second community became known officially as Sandpoint. So named for the nearby
landmark … a long bar of silvery sand stretching into the lake. Sandpoint was
platted as a town site in 1898 when the Great Northern Railroad telegrapher, L.
D. Farmin, subdivided his family homestead along Sand Creek. The village was
incorporated in 1900. He filed on the original town site and laid out Sandpoint
ten feet above the lake's high water mark, near the sandy shore of Lake Pend
Oreille.
While the railroads were the primary links connecting early
communities, trails and rough roads were upgraded for general use. Much of this
was done on a commission basis, with the county then granting the contractor the
right to charge a set toll for using his road. Dr. Wilbur Hendryx held a
franchise on the toll road running from Kootenai to Bonners Ferry, and the early
county commissioners received many complaints from northern citizens about the
unjust fares. The county gradually took over these roads, but maintenance was a
continual problem. In October 1888, J. J. Noonan, Road Supervisor of District 3,
reported that recent fires had destroyed all of the corduroy (log "ribbing" laid
across a wet spot to provide stability) on the county road between Sandpoint and
Kootenai Station. The commissioners appropriated $450 for necessary repairs.
Water inundated the Northern Pacific Railroad trestle at
Sandpoint. Flat cars, loaded with rock for ballast were run out on the bridge to
keep it from floating away. Later the railroad raised its tracks well above the
high water level creating a problem for Sandpoint.
The village, strung along either side of the tracks, found
itself divided by the railroad’s 10-foot high fill and cut off from expanding.
Left with but one recourse, the villagers moved west of the tracks and across
Sand Creek into “the sticks” (logged over land).
The main settlements underwent their baptism of fire. Three
times the Sandpoint business district was burned out with several lives lost.
Steamboats also served as an important link between towns and
outlying areas. The heyday on Lake Pend Oreille ran from the
1880s into the 1930s. The boats burned many cords of wood on each trip to
generate the necessary steam.
The surrounding countryside filled up with settlers who often
homesteaded government land or purchased land from the railroad for as little as
$2.60 an acre. Although land was cheap, life could be hard and frequently
lonely. Elmina Markham arrived with her husband and seven children in November
1883, settling at Sineacateen where they operated a ferry for many years. Mrs.
Markham later wrote, "I was here eight months without seeing a white woman.
There was a man and his wife and two or three sons come here on a fishing trip.
I went out and shook hands with her. I was so glad to see a white woman. She
only stayed one day. My husband told me he thought she was afraid to stay longer
for fear I would talk her to death."
As outlying areas grew, small communities developed. These
were often served by a store, post office, and school. Schools functioned as
community centers in most rural areas.
Along with people came industry. Mines prospered in many
areas, including Priest Lake,
Hope, Clark Fork, Lakeview, and Talache. Investors even backed a smelter at
Ponderay to process local ore, but the venture did not last long.
At the turn of the century, lumber began to take over the
local economy. Snowy slopes and the many rivers provided a great way to haul
logs.
Timber continued for many years to be the areas biggest
industry. Big Midwest
companies began moving into the virgin forests of northern Idaho
as their resources at home were depleted. Logging techniques changed over the
years as the industry became mechanized. Early loggers knew how to use the
difficult terrain of the region to their advantage. The steep mountain slopes
had the grade needed for chutes and flumes. Heavy snows provided a good base for
easy winter sleigh hauling. And swollen rivers in the spring provided
transportation for logs to the mills.
The Humbird Lumber Company grew to be the largest in the
area, turning out 200,000 board feet every twenty-four hours. With a large mill,
a shingle mill, and a company store, Humbird employed 350 men and provided a
stable economic base for Sandpoint into the late 1920s.
While timber has always been a great natural resource in the
county, its demise was predicted long before the twentieth century. Great
consternation reigned in the Priest Lake area when, on
February 27, 1897, President Grover Cleveland issued a proclamation creating the
Priest River Forest Reserve. With this 650,000 acre reserve closed to settlers,
and the loggers’ axes prophets of doom darkly declared “The economy of North
Idaho is scuttled.”
Many families converted cut-over land into farms, or "stump
ranches." The primary agricultural crop was hay, suited to the short growing
season of northern
Idaho. Timber companies purchased large quantities of hay to feed the horses
used in logging operations.
The impetus of logging activity brought sudden mushrooming of
building and business to the county, bringing in many settlers and causing a
period of growth that has not since been equaled. By 1902 North Idaho had more miles of
railroad than any other part of the state.
Not until the Great Northern was built in 1891 did Priest River have official
status. Charles Jackson platted the 87-acre town site in 1901.
Sandpoint was a city built on railroad and logging and had
quite the reputation as a rough and tumble sort of town.
After receiving their pay, loggers and railroad men would
flock to one of 23 saloons in the small town, spending money on liquor and
prostitutes.
Life was difficult in those times and the weather caused
great hardships as well as wonderful bonding relationships. People flooded into
the area eager to start a new life and in 1894 LD Farmin opened the first school
in the area. Bonner
County was formed and in 1901, Sandpoint officially became a city and was named
the county seat.
The community across the lake to the south, Sagle was also a
growing community. Sagle in 1891, had a one-room log schoolhouse where the term
was three months in summer. The Turnbull brothers—Oliver, Tom, Fred and Lou
Summer were the first students to take eighth grade examinations in the
county. Sagle residents would have to travel to Spokane for their town business
and shopping. It was finally decided to literally bridge the gap between the two
communities and The Long Bridge was built in 1910. It was the longest wooden
bridge in the world at 2 miles long.
One of the most significant aspects of the county’s history
is the fact that the county was “formed” twice and “divided” once in political
maneuvering.
As early as 1905 the turmoil began. Senator Herman H. Taylor
introduced the Spaulding bill which created the counties of “Lewis” and “Clark”
out of the original Kootenai county. After a legal hassle, the Supreme Court
declared the new counties invalid because Kootenai County had lost its
identity. Considerable competition generated within the illegal county of Clark
to locate the new county seat at Bonners Ferry.
However, it was finally agreed in “behind the scenes”
politicking that in return for support to change the name of Clark to Bonner, the northern
town would lend its support to Sandpoint for the county seat. Quietly at the
1907 Legislature, Clark and Lewis Counties went out of the record in favor of
Bonner and Kootenai.
So Bonner
County is among the latest of the state’s 44 counties, having been cut off from
Kootenai County by an act of the Legislature on February 2, 1907.
The Panida Theater was built in 1927 as a place to provide
entertainment such as silent movies, vaudeville and eventually sound movies. The
town of Sandpoint grew and the economy flourished.
Soon thereafter, the depression hit hard in Sandpoint
shuttering many businesses, lumber yards and banks. Many left town altogether
but those that persevered, turned their efforts towards the arts, culture and
recreation and other ways to make a living. Fishing became a prosperous endeavor
with record sized fish being pulled from the waters of Lake Pend Oreille.
During World War II, the construction of the Farragut Naval
Training Station in Bayview brought 300,000 seamen to the area for boot camp
training. Many either stayed in the area, or came back after their tour of duty
drawn by the beauty of the area and the great opportunity they saw.
Jim Brown founded The Pack River Lumber Company in 1940 and
it soon became a dominant force in the local economy.
In the 1940s and 1950s as Sandpoint recovered from the
depression, optimism pervaded the air as radio and the movies came to town. KSPT
brought music to the region in the '50s and soon thereafter, the Motor Movie, a
drive-in opened its gates.
In the summer, the area was booming with lake activities and
movies and theater at the Panida.
However, the town was dead quiet in the winter, until Jack
Fowler stopped for gas in Hope on his way home from a ski trip to Big Mountain in Montana. He
looked up and saw a snowy bowl in what is now called Schweitzer. He thought to
himself that it looked like a great place to put a ski area and then he wouldn’t
have to drive so far for their ski vacations. He got a group of local and
regional businessmen together, sold
stocks to raise enough money, hired Sam Wormington from Canada to come and run
the resort and
Schweitzer
Basin opened December 4, 1963, with $4 day passes for one rope tow and a mile
long chair lift.
Suddenly, Sandpoint began to lose its anonymity as visitors
flocked to the ski area from all over the Northwest as well as Chicago and Minneapolis. It was
then that Sandpoint became a year round community offering a simple, quiet life
for those who wanted it.
The 1970s brought hippies and environmentalism as well as
arts and more theater to the area. This spelled the downfall of the lumber
industry. Jim Brown, of the Pack River Lumber Company, wisely diversified his business and, as one of the original founders of Schweitzer
Mountain, bought out the rest of the shareholders to make Schweitzer a
privately owned venture. To this very day one can still see the occasional
psychedelic bus or love bug traversing county roads. Now the hippies are
augmented by the winter ski bum, and the warm weather off-road cyclists.
Schweitzer has since been purchased by the Harbor Mountain
Company based in Seattle
and continues to expand its facilities and ski terrain.
Around this time the Hope Peninsula became an art
colony. Edward and Nancy Reddin Kienholz moved there from Los Angeles in 1973.
The Peninsula also had a cluster of buildings owned by the Max Factor
family,
and the Kienholz’s drew upon the beauty of the area as inspiration. A
close friend and principal benefactor to Kienholz was Klaus Groenke, also a
former resident of the Hope Peninsula. Groenke is one of the richest German real
estate developers and is the managing director and part owner of Trigon Holding
GmbH, a Berlin based international real estate company. He is also reported to
be a leading share holder in Coca Cola Company, and a regional board member of
the Deutsche Bank Berlin/Brandenberg. It is reported that the reason that the
Hope Peninsula has a paved road it that he had it done so his guests would not
have to drive on a dirt road out to his estate. Half his
estate was sold in 2005, however, formerly Mr. Groenke's land boasted a series
of
triangulated satellite
dishes, extensive antennae
arrays, and
curious metal "art."
These giant sculptures dotted his property, many of which were originally
purchased for millions of dollars, and some could be seen by Lake Pend Oreille
boaters. A few were the "Tableaux" that Kienholz was famous for. One of the most
famous features is the Plexiglas-encased full section of the Berlin Wall,
graffiti and all, easily seen right in front of the front gate. The Hope
Peninsula is also the home of the Ruen property: a 194 acre jewel that the
family cannot agree on what to do with. It also has Sam Owen Park and is a
nature preserve, with hundreds of friendly, tame deer that tourists love to
interact with, and many other protected animals such as dozens and dozens of
wild turkeys.
Local art
gallery owner, Jim Quinn of the Timberstand writes in his blog: “Throughout
the years art colonies have developed by region because they give skilled but
lessor known artists the opportunity to work side by side with more accomplished
painters. One of the earliest and better known colonies is The New Hope Colony.
They were associated with the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts and the concept
of painting en plein air. Many members of this group, Daniel Garber, Fern
Coppage, Walter Emerson and many others are very collectible in today's market
especially since they followed in the footsteps of artist Edward Willis Redfield
who influenced an entire generation. Some other well known colonies are -
Woodstock, New York, The Hoosiers, Colonies of the South, Southern Women
Artists, etc...
In
today's world art colonies continue to develop in places like Jackson Hole, WY,
Sun Valley, Idaho, Sandpoint, Idaho and many other places known for their
natural beauty.”
Today with the Artist Studio Tour, many galleries, and hundreds of artists, the
county has become a true artist’s haven.
The
Pend Oreille Arts Council was formed in 1978 and with it,
summer theater was born. The Panida
Theater closed its doors until it was saved by a community fund-raiser and
reopened in 1985. A bridge was constructed across Sand Creek and housed the
public market. It is now home to Coldwater Creek’s flagship store. The 1980s
brought more local flair to the area as the Farmer’s Market was founded and the
Festival at Sandpoint began welcoming top name musicians to the area at its
wonderful setting on the shores of the Pend Oreille River.
In the
1990s nearby
Coeur d'Alene and
Hayden Lake attracted nationwide publicity when
white supremacist
Neo-Nazi groups (most notably the
Aryan Nations) set up headquarters in the area. Many
Sandpoint residents reacted negatively to such groups; some formed the Bonner
County Human Rights Task Force in opposition. In
2001 the
Aryan Nations lost a lawsuit filed against them. The
lawsuit bankrupted the organization and forced them to give up their
Hayden Lake property and disband.
Politically we are a mixed bag. After the Civil War many Southern
Democrats moved to Idaho Territory. As a result the early territorial
legislatures were solidly Democratic. In contrast most of the territorial
governors were appointed by Republican Presidents and were Republicans
themselves. This led to sometimes bitter clashes between the two parties. In the
1880s Republicans became more prominent in local politics.
Since statehood the Republican Party has usually been the
dominant party in Idaho. In the 1890s and early 1900s the Populist Party enjoyed
prominence while the Democratic Party maintained a brief dominance in the 1930s
during the Great Depression. Since World War II most statewide elected officials
have been Republicans, but Democrats have had at least one elected official in a
statewide office at any given time. Curiously, Idaho has no political party
registration. Fiercely individualistic, North Idaho's hippie past displays more
as a group that often wants to be simply left alone. Many Californians,
Oregonians, and Washingtonians have migrated to the area, many leaning towards
environmental politics, as well as a NIMBY attitude. Surprisingly, while
Southerners immigrated here in droves after the Civil War, in recent years they
have again been one of the strongest groups to come to the area.
As stated Idahoans have usually voted Republican in presidential
elections, but sometimes elect Democrats to Congress or the statehouse. The
state has become increasingly Republican in the 21st century, however. The
dominant Republican in the 20th century was US Senator William E. Borah, an
isolationist-progressive who opposed US entry into the League of Nations but
advocated world disarmament and supported prohibition, the graduated income tax,
and some New Deal reforms; as chairman of the Senate Foreign Relations Committee
from 1924 to 1940, he was one of the most influential legislators in the nation.
One measure of the conservatism of Idaho voters in the 1960s and
1970s was the showing by George Wallace's American Independent Party in 1968
(12.6% of the total vote) and his American Party in 1972 (9.3%, the highest of
any state). In 2000 Republican George W. Bush received 69% of the vote, while
Democrat Al Gore won 28% and Reform Party candidate Patrick Buchanan captured
2%. In 2002 there were 679,535 registered voters. While there is no party
registration in the state, some polls placed the number of voters that consider
themselves Independent as more than Republicans or Democrats. The state had four
electoral votes in the 2000 presidential election.
A Democrat, Cecil Andrus, served four terms as governor, retiring
in 1994. In winning the governor's office in November 1994, Republican Phil Batt
ended 24 years of Democratic control of that office. He was succeeded by another
Republican, Dirk Kempthorne, following the 1998 election; Kempthorne was
reelected in 2002. In May 2006, Republican Jim Risch took over the helm as
governor. In mid-2003, the state legislature had 28 Republicans and seven
Democrats in the senate, and 54 Republicans and 16 Democrats in the house. In
2002 elections, Idaho voters again elected two Republicans to represent them in
the US House. Its US senators, Larry Craig, reelected in 2002, and Mike Crapo,
elected in 1998, are also Republicans. In the House are C. L. (Butch) Otter and
Mike Simpson, both Republicans. Butch represents our area.
In recent years
Sandpoint and Bonner County have seen tremendous increases in housing values.
The quality of life here, on beautiful Lake Pend Oreille and under Schweitzer
Mountain has been reported in so many national publications that many are
migrating here and sharing in that life.
The National Press that Sandpoint,
Schweitzer Mountain Ski Resort, and Lake Pend Oreille have
received in the last couple of years has been astonishing. Astonishing only if
you haven’t been here. Our area has been featured in
USA Today and
Smart Money Magazine. Sunset
magazine called us the “West’s
best small town.” National Geographic Adventure
magazine voted Sandpoint one of the 10 best adventure towns in the nation.
Outside magazine featured
Schweitzer & named Sandpoint
the “cool
Northwest’s hot property.”
Schweitzer was in Away.com
and has been in many ski mags such as
Ski Snowboard. Forbes.com loved our
telecommuting,
MSNBC said it again, & Cabin Life,
Cabin Living called Sandpoint “the quintessential Western outdoor
lover’s town.”
Why do all of these publications find Sandpoint so
alluring? Some say it is because of the true small town appeal, with less than
10,000 residents. For others it is the breath-taking scenery. We
have perhaps the most beautiful by-way in America, the second largest lake in
the west, & it takes less than half an hour to get to the top of
Schweitzer Mountain, a top-rated ski haven over
looking
Lake Pend Oreille., which was
featured in
48° North Sailing Magazine. Summers
have more sports than many cities & year-round the fine people of the
community have festivals and happenings that make the heart sing. But if
what you are looking for is privacy along with friendly people, there are truly few places left like
North Idaho.
Some
of our festivals and events are much like other communities. We have an annual
Mardi Gras, which breaks up the winter nicely. We have two Oktoberfests: one at
Schweitzer and one at
Hidden Lakes.
We have a number of art events, including Art Walk, Plein Air, and the Arts and
Crafts Festival. We have a
Wooden Boat Show, fishing
tournaments, and lots of water events. The 4th of July brings cool fireworks at
the water's edge, and we have the expected Christmas and Thanksgiving
celebrations. However, our most famous event
began in 1982 and has grown into an internationally recognized music festival.
The
Festival at Sandpoint is graced by
many world-class and famous musicians every year, with a
history that makes us proud.
Still we have
controversies. We have more issues than we have ever faced before. And...we are
faced with challenges, such as population growth and a booming economy. Some of
the local controversies we face are the planned bypass around the city, the Rock
Creek Mine, and the widening of Highway 95. But as many have discovered, these
are but minor events in a place that many have come to know as paradise.
Compiled
from various sources
For Idaho History try this page at
VisitIdaho.org |